Do-It-Yourself Adirondack Chair

Once the base, legs, arms and back support are in place, it's time to cut the slats for the back and attach them to the frame.

Materials:

1 piece of 3/4" x 5 1/2" x 35" wood (center back slat)
2 pieces of 3/4" x 3 1/4" x 35" wood (back slats)
1 piece of 1/4" x 1" x 16" wood (for compass)
1 piece of 3/4" x 3" x 20" wood (lower back cleat)
1 piece of 3/4" x 2" x 21" wood (upper back cleat)
Scrap wood for spacers
Drill and 1 1/4" galvanized screws
Woodworker's glue
Saber saw
Pencil

1. Cut all back slats to proper dimensions. Vertically taper end slats (from 2" wide at top to 5/8" bottom width) to create a traditional Adirondack look.

2. Use 1/4" thick scrap wood as spacers between the slats. Add a row of spacers about 5-6" from the top edges and about 3-4" from the bottom edges.

3. Add a cleat across the bottom of the back, even with the bottom edges of slats (figure A). Apply woodworker's glue to cleat before positioning.

4. Then, countersink two pilot holes (evenly spaced) into the cleat and center slat (figure B). Drive 1 1/4" galvanized screws into the holes.

5. Countersink one hole through cleat and each additional back slat and drive galvanized screws into the holes (figure C).

6. Remove spacers.

7. Measure and mark 9" from top edge (figure D). Apply woodworkers glue to upper cleat and position at the 9" mark (figure E).

8. Then, countersink and drive screws into the cleat in center of each slat (figure F)

9. Flip back assembly over and cut top arch. Begin by taking a narrow piece of scrap wood (about 16" long). Measure and mark 2" from bottom of wood strip and 2" from top. At top, drill a 1/8" hole through the back of the strip; countersink the hole through the front surface. At bottom mark, add a finish nail to hold the strip in place (figure G).

10. Attach the strip to center of middle slat by pressing the nail's point into the wood. Insert pencil into top hole. Start drawing the arch in top center of the middle slat and continue to end slat on the right side (figure H). Start again at center point and draw remaining half of arch to the end slat on left side.

11. Use saber saw to cut along line and create arch.

12. Measure and drill pilot holes into front surface of bottom of the slats so that it can be later attached to the base assembly with screws.

Once the chair is assembled, additional supports are added, the seat is assembled and a protective finish is applied.

Materials:

1 piece of 3/4" x 2" x 25 1/2" (for beveled center back support)
Clamps
Drill and galvanized screws
Spacers
120-grit sandpaper
Wood finish (Johnson uses exterior polyurethane varnish mixed with an equal portion of mineral spirits for a clear, durable finish)

1. Bevel a back brace at 33 degrees. Use woodworkers glue and screws to hold in place just under the back edges of arm.

2. Next, attach back assembly to base assembly. Clamp bottom of back assembly to hold in place.

3. Countersink a pilot hole and drive a galvanized screw through the center support into the center slat (figure A).

4. Next add screws into the holes at the bottom edges of the slats to attach back assembly to the base (figure B). Remove clamps.

5. To assembly seat, cut slats and drill two holes in each end of slat. Begin adding slats to seat area (with spacers in between). Continue until all slats have been added (figure C). Use galvanized screws to secure.

6. Sand all exposed surface edges smooth and remove dust.

7. Finally, apply finish. (If using the same finish as in the demonstration, allow it to soak for about 5 minutes before wiping excess away).