Bow Tie Clay Necklace
Karen Mitchell demonstrates how to assemble this clay bow tie embellished necklace.
- A
- A
- A
Print Options
CloseE-mail This Page to Your Friends
xSuccess!
A link to %this page% was e-mailed
Designed by Ann and Karen Mitchell; demonstrated by Karen Mitchell.
Materials and Tools:
1/3 block Premo white
1/3 block Premo purple
1/3 block Premo cobalt
1/2 block Premo sap green
2 oz. bottle translucent liquid Sculpey
aluminum color metallic leaf
8" by 10" piece of glass (from an old frame works)
2" x 2" square of wax paper or foil
3" x 5-1/2" well-pressed cotton or cotton/polyester sheer light green fabric
ruler
ballpoint pen
scissors
tissue blade
craft knife
2 silver-colored head pins
pasta machine (for clay, Atlas brand preferred) or brayer
needle-nose pliers
wire clippers
silver-colored clasp
two silver-colored split rings
Steps:
1. Mix equal amounts of blue, purple and white clay together to make medium lavender. Mix colors together completely to make a uniform color. Adjust lightness or darkness by adding more white or purple. Condition clay completely by rolling and kneading.
2. Form clay into a ball. Using the palm of the hand, apply pressure to the center of the ball and roll gently into a thick snake. Continue to roll the snake thinner by applying even pressure with both hands, starting from the center of the snake working outwards.
3. When the snake is about 1/2" thick, apply pressure with fingers to one end of the snake, continuing to roll. Make the snake at this end slightly more than 1/8" thick.
4. When you have an even piece of this narrow snake, cut off a section that is 3-1/4" long. Repeat the steps for the thin snake and cut 10 more 3-1/4" pieces that are slightly more than 1/8" thick. Set two of the snakes aside.
5. Squeeze a small amount of liquid translucent clay onto wax paper or foil to use as adhesive for forming the links. Use your finger to dab a bit of liquid clay onto a cut end of one of your 10 snakes. Press the other flat cut end of the snake to the first, applying gentle pressure and creating a loop. The connected ends will thicken from pressing; thin this area out by rolling gently between your fingers. Repeat this pressing and rolling a few more times until the ends of the snake are connected completely.
6. Between your thumb and finger, press the loop into the shape of an eight, by attaching the seam of the loop to the opposite side of the loop exactly in the middle. Press to connect in the center. Flatten the top of one side of the now double loop to form the end of the bow tie link.
7. On either side of this flat edge, gently pinch the corners outwards and pull to form one side of the double loop into a triangle. Repeat the flattening, pinching and pulling for the other side of the double loop to form a bow tie link shape. Set in baking pan (use a layer of polyester batting under the links for baking if you are concerned about a flat shiny side on the back of the links).
8. Repeat the bow tie shaping steps for the other snakes. For the last two links, when snake is first formed into a loop and pressed into a figure eight, run the head pin through the center of the snake from the inside to the outside of the link on one end. Continue to shape the bow tie links as you did with the others. These two links will form the ends of the necklace where the clasp will be attached. Leave the head pin in the end links while baking. You should now have eleven links.
9. Bake all links at 265 degrees F for 17 to 20 minutes. Allow to cool.
10. Condition your sap green clay until soft and pliable. Roll through the pasta machine on a number one setting, and then a three and finally on the number four setting (about 1/16" thick). Trim to a 3" square; set aside excess clay.
11. Lay one piece of the aluminum color metallic leaf gently on top of your work surface. Carefully lay the square sheet of clay on top of the foil, making sure the square of clay will be completely covered in metallic leaf. Trim excess leaf and save for other projects.
12. Turn over the sheet of foiled clay. With a finger, gently rub the surface to burnish the metallic leaf onto the surface of the clay. Then carefully smooth a very thin coat of the liquid clay over the leaf to protect the leaf from rubbing off after baking.
13. With the tissue blade, cut 11 strips of the foiled clay that are 1/8" wide.
14. Take the first strip and lay the narrow end in the groove on one side of one of the bow tie links. Gently wrap the strip all the way around the center of the link, overlapping slightly when you get to the starting point.
15. Trim the excess part of the foiled strip off at an angle so the metallic leaf will overlap seamlessly (though it will be referred to as the seamed side of the link later on).
16. Press the seam closed and flat by using the flat edge of the craft knife. Use the remaining portion of the strip for the next link. If your foiled strip seems weak at any point, start with a new strip. Repeat the steps for each link until all eleven are complete. The liquid clay you applied to protect the metallic leaf will also help act as an adhesive in the wrapping steps.
17. Lay the links back in the baking pan, seamed side down, and bake for 17 to 20 minutes at 265 degrees F. Allow links to cool.
18. To prepare a sheet of clay fabric for the connector links: Pour about one teaspoon of transparent liquid Sculpey onto the clean piece of glass and spread with finger into a thin, even, slightly milky-looking rectangle approximately 2" x 5" in size.
19. Center your well-pressed piece of sheer fabric over the clay rectangle, leaving about 1/4" of fabric on all edges for easy removal later. Pat fabric to gently press into the clay. If fabric is not saturated, add a little liquid clay where needed. On the surface, the fabric will appear slightly shiny.
20. Place on a flat pan and bake glass with fabric for 10 minutes at 265 degrees F. Watch fabric closely to make sure it does not burn. Remove from oven.
21. While the fabric is still hot, pick up by one corner and peel from the glass. Lay fabric flat to cool. Set aside.
22. On the back (rough side) of the fabric, use a pen and ruler to mark 10 strips of clay fabric that are 1/4" wide and 2-1/4" long. Cut out all the strips.
23. From the plain (non-foiled) green scrap clay, pinch a blob the size of a dime. Add one or two drops of the liquid translucent clay and knead into a small slightly sticky ball of clay. This will be your adhesive for the fabric strips.
24. Pick up one of the bow tie links with the head pin in one end and hold it seamed side facing up. Thread one strip of the clay fabric through the end of the link without the head pin, rough side of clay fabric facing up (this is the back of the fabric).
25. Pinch a very tiny blob of clay from your ball of green clay adhesive. Press this tiny piece of clay onto the rough side of the end of the fabric strip that is pulled through the bow tie link. Fold over the clay strip, encasing the link, and press it back onto itself with about a 1/2" fold over.
26. Insert the other end of the fabric strip through a second bow tie link, seamed side of link facing up. Slide the second link up the fabric strip about 1/2". Apply a second tiny blob of the green adhesive clay to the end of the rough side of the fabric strip. Slide the second link out on the strip a bit and fold the fabric strip over the second link. Press the fabric strip with the adhesive clay blob to the center of the fabric link. The adhesive blobs should land on top of each other, and the fabric strip should overlap about 1/8".
27. Wrap a foiled strip of green clay (like the ones used on the bow tie links) around the center of the fabric link, cutting a beveled edge for a cleaner finish on the foiled part. Once again, use the flat edge of the craft knife to connect and flatten the seam of the metallic leaf strip. Trim or make any adjustments to the metallic strip on the link. Make sure the seam is on the same side of the fabric link where the fabric overlaps.
28. Continue connecting all 11 bow tie links with fabric strips as described. Attach the second link with the head pin at the opposite end. Lay the necklace carefully in a baking pan and bake at 265 degrees F for 17 to 20 minutes. Allow to cool.
29. Slide the head pin in one of the end links so the head is flush with the inside of the link. Using the pliers, gently shape a loop. Clip excess wire and close the loop with the pliers. Attach a split ring, and use the pliers to close the ring completely. Form a loop on the second link in with the same steps as the first one. Open the second split ring; slide it through the loop on the link and the loop on the clasp. Close the ring completely.
We Recommend...
Creating a Polymer Clay Necklace
Learn how to make this unique polymer clay neclace designed by Barbara McGuire.
Polymer Clay Turtle Necklace, Heart Bracelet
Alexis Greer shows how to make a turtle pendant and a heart charm bracelet from polymer clay. Follow these step-by-step...
Polymer Clay Pendant and Necklace
Karen Lorraine has found a way to incorporate her highly-tuned drawing skills into her work with polymer clay. The end result is...
Thought you had it covered?
Tell us what you need, and we'll help you find the best service providers in your area.
Shop Home Decor Products
Shop home decor products from rugs to mirrors, lamps and more



















