Edwin Sadler shows how to convert exotic woods into gorgeous wood bowls.
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17. Position the tool rest about 1/4 inch from the padauk and make sure the work spins freely.
18. Wearing a face shield, set the lathe on the slowest speed and with a roughing gouge start to turn the lip and the body to a circular shape.
19. Shape the outside lip and body with a 1/2-inch bowl gouge.
20. Move the tool rest to the bottom of the bowl, square the base and radius the edge. Use a rounded scraper tool to smooth the outside of the bowl and lip.
21. Withdraw the running center, move the tailstock back and set the tool rest at the bottom of the bowl 90 degrees to the bed.
22. Trim the bottom with a bowl gouge and scraper to square up the bottom. Using a bow scriber, scribe a 2-1/4 inch circle on the base of the bowl.
23. Using a thumbnail gouge, turn a recess at the 2-1/4 inches; about 1/8" to 3/16" deep.
24. With the long point of a skew chisel cut a dovetail at the 2-1/4 inch diameter for the jaws to expand into.
25. Move the tool rest out of the way and sand the outside of the bowl starting from 120-grit up to 400-grit. Unscrew the bowl, take out the screw drive center, and mount the bowl in the jaws. Check that the bowl runs true.
26. Set the tool rest parallel to the face and with the 1/2 inch bowl gouge start cutting out the inside of the bowl, biggest diameter to the smallest. Shape the lip.
27. Using a scraper, smooth out the inside of the bowl. Move the tool rest out of the way and sand the inside.
28. Wipe the bowl with a tack cloth. Spread "wiping polyurethane" on the entire surface with a clean cloth.
29. When dry (about 30 minutes), buff with 600-grit sandpaper and apply another coat of polyurethane. Continue this process until satisfied with the finish.
Mark Reynolds of Austin, Texas, has been crafting these intriguing visual toys for 28 years.