Wood Turned Bowls

Figure A

2. After gluing with yellow carpenter's glue, clamp the two pieces of milled poplar together and allow to dry for four to six hours (figure A).

3. Unclamp the dried poplar and draw a circle, the size of the exterior of your bowl, on the top surface of the poplar with a compass. Mark an "X" at the center point of the circle.

4. Carefully cut the poplar into a circle using the band saw and the drawn lines as a guideline.

Figure D

5. Center the faceplate on the top surface of the poplar and screw it down using a drill and drywall screws. Use the "X" mark as a guide for placement of the faceplate. Tip: Avoid long screws that will pierce to the other side of the poplar.

6. Mount the material onto the lathe using the faceplate and adjust the lathe's gauge to a lower speed (figure D).

7. Move the tool rest close to the mounted poplar and slightly below the center axis.

8. Turn the lathe on and using a bowl gouge begin centering the mounted poplar. Note: The lathe will be a little wobbly at first until the material becomes balanced.

Figure E

9. Once the bowl has been centered and balanced, begin shaping the bottom of the wood bowl including the foot base (figure E).

10. Once the final shape of the bottom of the wood bowl has been turned, sand the bowl to 220-grit, starting with 80-grit or 100-grit. Tip: Move the tool rest out of the way before sanding.

11. Detach the bowl from the lathe and unscrew the drywall screws from the faceplate.

Figure G

12. Mount the unfinished wood bowl into the four-jaw chuck. This is done by opening the jaws of the chuck on the inside of the turned foot. Make sure to provide enough resistance to securely and safely grip the poplar (figure G).

13. Once the bowl has been secured by the four-jaw chuck and is level, mount the bowl and chuck into the lathe.

14. Move the tool rest close to the poplar and slightly below the center axis.

15. Turn on the lathe and using a bowl gouge even off the top surface. Note: This becomes the rim of the bowl.

Figure H

16. Once the rim of the bowl has been turned, begin scooping out the inside of the bowl using a bowl gouge. Be careful to pay attention to the thickness of the walls of the bowl (figure H).

17. Once the inside of the bowl has been hollowed out, begin sanding. Use the same methods utilized on the exterior of the bowl. Note: Move the tool rest out of the way.

18. After sanding brush off any loose dust.

19. Adjust the lathe setting to the lowest speed to begin painting.

20. Mix the milk paint according to the packet directions. Tip: Mix equal parts paint to water and strain.

Figure I

21. Slowly turn the lathe by hand or set to a low speed and begin applying paint (figure I). Be careful that the speed is not too fast that it splatters paint everywhere.

22. Allow the paint to dry and apply another coat.

Figure J

23. Once the layers of paint have dried, adjust the lathe to a slightly higher speed and sand the surface with "0000" steel wool. This burnishes the surface to a nice satin finish (figure J).

24. Detach the painted bowl from the four-jaw chuck carefully. Paint the inside of the foot.

Figure K

25. Embellish the bowl's surface with desired motifs using pencils or permanent markers (figure K).

26. Seal the surface with a clear coat of shellac or lacquer. Apply thin coats of clear coat shellac or lacquer at first and slowly build up the layers. This protects the bowl and reveals a shiny finish.

Kimberly Winkle from Nashville, Tenn., has been interested in structure and building as long as she can remember. She recalls building wooden birdhouses in her garage as a young girl. Using the lathe, this fun and talented wood worker will be turning a uniquely shaped bowl out of poplar wood.