Story Quilt Jacket

Simply Quilts : Episode QLT-905 -- More Projects »
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Instructions provided courtesy of guest Karen Boutte.

Materials:

new, unwashed sweatshirt with set-in sleeves 1 to 2 sizes larger than normal
fabric stash (unwashed) - 1/4 to 1/2 yard pieces of 30+ fabrics
glass head pins
rotary cutter, ruler and mat
scissors
sewing machine
Sulky of America thread (variegated, rayon, cotton, metallic, Holoshimmer and monofilament)
fabric marker (tailors' chalk or fabric pencil)
Orvis quilt soap
photographs for inspiration

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Figure A
Steps:

Preparation


  1. Select a new, unwashed sweatshirt with set-in sleeves (figure A) to use as a foundation. Make sure that the sweatshirt is large enough to account for shrinkage when quilted and washed.
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Figure B
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Figure C
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Figure D
  • Turn the sweatshirt inside out. Prepare the foundation by cutting the sweatshirt open at the side seams to provide a flat pallet to work on (figure B).

    Cut the side seam all the way down the sleeve (figure C). Remove the label from the back of the sweatshirt. Remove the bottom and sleeve ribbing (figure D).

    Don't remove the neck ribbing at this time. Turn the shirt right side out, and spread it out on a work surface so you can see front and back and both sleeves.

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    Figure E
    Design

  • Design a "story panel" for the jacket front using selected photographs for inspiration (figure E).
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    Figure F
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  • "Messy cut" (don't have to be careful, just cut) several large pieces of your chosen fabric. Position these elements on the sweatshirt front in a pleasing manner (figure F).
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    Figure G
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    Figure H
  • When satisfied with the design, "fussy cut" the design elements leaving about 1/8 inch around each (figure G). Pin these elements in place (figure H).

  • Position the design elements for the back of the jacket and repeat steps 4 and 5.

  • Baste the jacket front and back using monofilament thread. Sew around the large areas using a straight stitch about 1/8 inches from the edge. For small or detailed items, use free motion stitching with your darning foot and the feed dogs dropped or covered.

  • Place your desired design elements on shirt sleeves following steps 4 through 7.

    Embellishment

  • Beginning with the jacket front, use the decorative sewing machine stitches to add texture, highlight an area or outline a specific motif.
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    Figure I
  • Add embellishment as desired (couched thread, free motion embroidery) (figure I).
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    Figure J
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  • Quilt your garment using your favorite method (figure J). I prefer free motion quilting to add dimension to the garment using a variety of threads.

    Finishing

  • Turn your garment to the wrong side. Trim off any excess fabric from all sides and "even-up" the edges of your jacket.

  • Turn your garment to the right side and lay on a flat surface. Using a tape measure or ruler, measure across the front of the jacket in a least three places to ensure accuracy. Mark the center of the jacket with your chalk marker. Use a straight edge (ruler) to draw a chalk line down the center front of your jacket. Carefully cut the center front open on the drawn line, through the neck ribbing.

  • After cutting the center front, sew a small zigzag stitch around the neck area close to the ribbing seam (to prevent stretching). Carefully remove the neck ribbing with scissors. Turn the garment inside out and stitch the side and sleeve seams back together.

  • Prepare several yards of binding for the garment. Use either double-fold French binding or single raw edged straight grain or bias binding. While your garment is still flat, sew the binding to each sleeve.

  • Turn the garment to the wrong side and pin the side seams from the bottom of the jacket to the cuff. Sew a 1/2-inch seam along the side seams using thread to match the sweatshirt.

  • Start at the lower edge of the jacket, and sew the binding all the way around the jacket.

  • Place the finished garment in the washing machine with a mild soap. I use Orvis quilt soap. Remove the jacket from the wash and place in the dryer with a couple of bath towels. These help the raw edges to "bloom." Remove your dry jacket, turn on a good movie and clip the excess threads. Your new creation is now ready to wear. Note: When wearing your new jacket, be prepared for the "quilter’s handshake" and remember to share your story!
  • Resources
    monofilament, Sliver Metallic, Holoshimmer Metallic, cotton, Poly Deco and Rayon thread - Sulky
    Sulky of America Inc.
    E-mail: info@sulky.com
    Website: www.sulky.com
    Guests
    Karen Boutte
    Quilt teacher, designer and lecturer
    Website: www.karenboutte.com
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