3-D Needle-Felted Puppy

Figure A

Steps:

1. To build a three-dimensional foundation form: Start with simple foundation shapes built with plain white or natural-colored fleece. There is no reason to waste the more expensive colored fleeces at this step. The puppy is made from two foundation shapes — a large ball and a small ball. The large ball is one-and-a-half times the size of the small ball. With this in mind, begin the small ball by taking a handful of fleece and squeezing it in your hand; this will help to determine the approximate size ball the fleece will produce. You can add or subtract fleece as needed.

Figure B

2. Roll the fleece into a ball; this will help get the fleece in control and produce a tighter form to begin punching. Place the ball on the foam rubber block, holding it gently with your free hand. Make sure you are holding your free hand in a "C" shape over the fleece. Punch the needle, inside the "C", into the oval space created by your hand.

3. Keep rolling and turning the ball, so the entire surface is worked evenly. Initially it seems that little is being accomplished, but gradually, as the fibers compress, the ball becomes smaller and more firm. Patience is a virtue in this medium.

How do you know if you have compressed the fibers as much as necessary? To some degree, it is personal preference; however; the fibers need to be compressed tight enough to hold their shape. Here are a few simple tests: Does the ball show resistance when squeezed, or is your form so soft your fingers touch one another in the middle of the form? Does it bounce, or is the form so light it seems to float in the air? Does it return to its original form after being squeezed or easily take on a new shape? It has been my experience, the more solid the form, the more successful the finished piece.

4. Complete both foundation forms by rolling and punching, making sure they are both compressed as firmly as one other. When you have a large and small ball of the proper proportions, you are ready to start the neck.

Figure C

5. Adding the neck to the large ball: The neck is a flat-topped cone shape onto which the head is attached. To form the neck, fibers are layered and attached to the large foundation form. Model the fibers into a flat-topped cone shape, making sure to compress the fibers as tight as the foundation form. Remember to compress from all sides and top.

Figure E

6. After the neck is added, the head is attached. Push fibers from the body into the head and from the head into the body, turning the body as needed to secure all sides. A thin layer of additional fibers is added around the neck to make sure the head is attached securely and that there is a smooth transition between the head and body. The basic shape now looks like a drumstick.

7. To make the front legs: The foot and the shaft of the leg are equal in size, and the leg is about one-third the total height of the body. In addition to the fleece for the leg and foot, there needs to be some extra fibers for attaching the legs. Gather the fleece and squeeze it to approximate the necessary amount of fleece.

Note: Since it is difficult to remember how much fleece is used in the leg after it is formed, it helps to set aside the fleece for both legs right away. By starting with two wads the same size, there is a better chance the second leg will be the same size and density as the first.

Figure F

8. Fold the first wad of fleece in half; this helps to control stray fibers and make a smoother toe. Compress the fibers into a cylinder and then flatten the end to make the foot. Work back the length of the foot and begin to bend the fibers to form an ankle. Continue up the cylinder of the leg, leaving fuzzy ends for attachment. Shapes such as the legs are difficult to get firm; however, because they support the body, extra care needs to be taken to compress the fibers from as many directions as possible. Punching fibers down into the shafts helps tighten them.

Figure G

9. Attaching the front legs: Hold the legs in place to give yourself an idea where they should be attached. Attach them a bit under the body so that the chest protrudes a little beyond the legs. Attach the legs, one at a time, by punching all the fuzzy fibers into the chest. In addition, punch the fibers under and around the shaft of the legs to make sure the entire leg is attached securely. After both legs are in place, it may be necessary to add a layer of fleece around the legs to help create a smooth transition.

Note: If you are planning to add a different color fleece to the chest, this is a good time. Layer the second color over the foundation to make the chest. Other spots can be added at this time to the feet or back if you choose. The spots should be worked into the surface so there are no bumps. It is never too late if you choose to add spots later.

10. Start the back legs the same as the front by gathering two wads of fleece of equal size — roughly double that used for the front legs. Fold the fleece in half as with the front foot and form the pancake foot. Work back the foot gradually, changing from the pancake to a cylinder until it is as long as the depth of the body from chest to base of tail. Flatten the cylinder on the bottom.

Figure H

11. The hip is a thick, oval pancake shape that sits on top of the foot. Fold the remaining fleece back over the leg and secure some of the remaining hip fibers to the back half of the foot. Unlike the front feet, there are going to be no fuzzy ends left for attaching the back legs. Instead, the remaining ends of fleece will be tucked to the inside of the hip, forming the oval pancake. These ends are tacked in place to hold until attaching. The hip form is left larger than the finished hip and then compressed to its final size when it is attached. Make the second back leg a mirror image of the first, tucking the fibers on the opposite side.

Figure I

12. Attaching the back legs: After the second leg is completed, both are attached. The hips that were left oversized are now sculpted and compressed to the proper size and firmness. Start by doing a test fitting. Place the back feet to the outside of the front feet and leave a space between the back legs where the tail will be placed. Sit the puppy on a flat surface to make sure the feet all sit on the surface equally. Tack one leg in place by punching fibers from the hip into the body. Continue to work the fibers of the entire oval into the body to secure the leg. Flip the puppy over and secure the foot into the body from the bottom as well. Work the hip fibers until they are as firm as the rest of the body, retaining the form of the hip and foot. Attach the second back leg in the same manner.